Hochiminh Sights

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Sights:

Although HCMC lacks the obvious aesthetic. virtues of its rival to the north, the city provides some fascinating sights for the wanderer, from little-visited pagodas hidden down quiet lanes to museums, historic sites and teeming markets all jumbled up ill the chaotic urban scene. First-time visitors often focus exclusively on District, where many of the sights are found. Those with more than a day in the city can take in central HCMC, the pagodas in Cholon and further afield, leaving enough time to explore the intriguing side of Saigon -like an afternoon at an amusement park or the racetrack.

• Central Area

Reunification Palace

Striking modern architecture and the eerie feeling you gel as you walk through its deserted halls make Reunification Palace (Dinh Thong Nhal; Tell: 3829 4117; 106 Nguyen Du Str., 7.30-11 am & 1-4 pm) one of the most fascinating sights in HCMC. The building, once the symbol of the South Vietnamese government, is preserved almost as it was on that day in April 1975 when the Republic of Vietnam, which hundreds of thousands of Vietnamese and 58,183 Americans had died trying to save, ceased to exist. Some recent additions include a statue of Ho Chi Minh and a viewing room where you can watch a video about Vietnamese history in a variety of languages. The national anthem is played at the end of the tape and you are expected to stand up - it would be rude not to. Perhaps most interesting of all is the basement with its network of tunnels, telecommunications centre and war room (with the best map of Vietnam you'll ever see pasted on the wall). Reunification Palace is not open to visitors when official receptions or meetings are taking place. English and French-speaking guides are on duty during opening hours.

War Remnants Museum

Once known as the Museum of Chinese and American War Crimes, the War Remnants Museum (Bao Tang Chung Tich Chien Tranh; Tell: 3930 5587; 28 Vo Van Tan Str.,; 7.30am-noon & 1.30-5pm) is now the most popular museum in HCMC with Western tourists. Many of the atrocities documented here were well publicised in the West, but rarely do Westerners have the opportunity to hear the victims of US military action tell their own stories. US armoured vehicles, artillery pieces, bombs and infantry weapons are on display outside. Many photographs illustrating US atrocitics are from US sources, including photos of the infamous My Lai Massacre. There is a model of the notorious tiger cages used by the South Vietnamese military to house Viet Cong (VC) prisoners on Con Son Island and a guillotine used by the French on Viet Minh 'troublemakers'.

The War Remnants Museum is in the former US Information Service building, at the intersection with Le Quy Don Str. Explanations arc in Vietnamese, English and Chinese. Though a bit incongruous with the museum's theme, water-puppet theatre is staged in a tent on the museum grounds.

Museum of Ho Chi Minh city

Housed in a grey, neoclassical structure built in 1886 and once known as Gia Long Palace (later, the Revolutionary Museum), the Museum of Ho Chi Minh City (Bao Tang Thanh Pho Ho Chi Minh; Tell: 3829 9741; 65 Ly Tu Trong Str.,; 8am-4pm) is a singularly beautiful and amazing building.

The museum displays artefacts from the various periods of the communist struggle for power in Vietnam. The photographs of anticolonial activists executed by the French appear out of place in the gilded, 19th-century ballrooms, but then again the contrast gives a sense of the immense power and complacency of the colonial French. There are photos of Vietnamese peace demonstrators in Saigon demanding that US troops get out; and a dramatic photo of Thich Quang Duc, the monk who made headlines worldwide, when he burned himself to death in 1963 to protest against the policies of President Ngo Dinh Diem.

The museum is located a block east of Reunification Palace.

History Museum

The stunning Sino-French-style building that houses the History Museum (Bao Tang Lich Su; Tell: 3829 8146; Nguyen Binh Khiem Str.,; 8-11am&1.30-4.30pmTue-Sun) was built in 1929 by the Societe des Etudes Indochinoises. It's worth a visit just to view the architecture!

The museum has an excellent collection of artefacts illustrating the evolution of the cultures of Vietnam, from the Bronze Age Dong Son civilisation (13th century BC to 1st century AD) and the Oc-Eo (Funan) civilisation (1st to 6th centuries AD), to the Cham, Khmer and Vietnamese. There are many valuable rel ics taken from Cambodia's Angkor Wat.

The museum is just inside the main gate to the city zoo and botanic gardens, where the east end of Le Duan Str., meets Nguyen Binh Khiem Str,. Just across Nguyen Binh Khiem Str. is a small military museum (Tell: 3822 9387; 2 Le Duan Str) devoted to Ho Chi Minh's campaign to liberate the south. Inside is of minor interest, but some US, Chinese and Soviet war mater is on display outdoors, including a Cessna A-37 of the South Vietnamese Air Korce and a US built F-5E Tiger with the 20 mm nose gun still loaded. The tank on display is one of the tanks that broke into the grounds of Reunification Palace on 30 April 1975.

Jade Emperor Pagoda

Built in 1909 by the Cantonese (Quang Dong) Congregation, the Jade Emperor Pagoda (Phuoc Hai Tu or Chua Ngoc Hoang; 73 Mai Thi Luu Str.) is truly a gem among Chinese temples. It is one of the most spectacularly colourful pagodas in HCMC, filled with statues of phantasmal divinities and grotesque heroes. The pungent smoke of burning joss sticks fills the air, obscuring the exquisite woodcarvings decorated with gilded Chinese characters. The roof is covered with elaborate tile work. The statues, which represent characters from both the Buddhist and Taoist traditions, are made of reinforced papier-mache. The pagoda is dedicated to the Emperor of Jade, the supreme Taoist god.

The Jade Emperor Pagoda is in a part of the city known as Da Kao (or Da Cao). To get here, go to 20 Dien Bien Phu Str., and walk half a block to the northwest.

Fine Arts Museum

A classic yellow-and-white building with a modest Chinese influence, the Fine Arts Museum (Bao Tang My Thuat; Tell: 3829 4441;97A Pho Due Chinh Str., 9am-4.30pm Tue-Sun), houses one of the more interesting collections in Vietnam - ranging from lac quer and enamelware to contemporary oil paintings by Vietnamese and foreign artists. If that doesn't sound enticing, just go to see the huge hall with its beautifully tiled floors. On the 1st floor is a display of officially accepted contemporary art: most of it is just kitsch or desperate attempts to roaster abstract art, but occasionally something brilliant is displayed here. Most of the recent art is for sale and prices are fair.

Ho Chi Minh Museum

This museum (Khu Luu Niem Bac Ho; Tell: 3840067; 1 Nguyen Tat Thanh Str.,; 7.30 11.30am & 1.30-5pm) is in the old customs house in District 4, just across Ben Nghe Channel from the quayside end of Ham Nghi Str. Nicknamed the 'Dragon House' (Nha Rong), it was built in 1863. The tie between Ho Chi Minh and the museum building is tenuous: 21-year-old Ho, having signed on as a stoker and galley boy on a French freighter, left Vietnam from here in 1911 and thus began 30 years of exile in France, the Soviet Union, China and elsewhere.

The museum houses many of Ho's personal effects, including some of his clothing the was a man of informal dress), sandals, his beloved US-made Zenith radio and other memorabilia. The explanatory signs in the museum are in Vietnamese, but if you know something about Uncle Ho you should be able to follow most of the photographs and exhibits.

Xa Loi Pagoda

Famed as the repository of a sacred relic of the Buddha, Xa Loi Pagoda ( 89 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan Str.,) was built in 1956. In August 1963 truckloads of armed men under the command of President Ngo Dinh Diem's brother, Ngo Dinh Nhu, attacked Xa Loi Pagoda, which had become a centre of opposition to the Diem government. The pagoda was ransacked and 400 monks and nuns, including the country's 80-year-old Buddhist patriarch, were arrested. This raid and others elsewhere helped solidify opposition among Buddhists to the Diem regime, a crucial factor in the US decision to support the coup against Diem. This pagoda was also the site of several self-immolations by monks protesting against the Diem regime and the American War.

Xa Loi Pagoda is in District 3 near Dien Bien Phu Str. A monk preaches every Sunday from Sam to 10am. On days of the full moon and new moon, special prayers are held from 7am to 9am and 7pm to 8pm.

Tran Hung Dao Temple

This small temple (36 VoThi Sau Str.,; 6- 11am & 2-6pm; Mon-Fri) is dedicated to Tran Hung Dao, a national hero who in 1287 vanquished an invasion force, said to have numbered 300,000 men, that had been dispatched by the Mongol emperor Kublai Khan. The temple is a block northeast of the telecommunication dishes that are between Dien Bien Phu Str., and Vo Thi Sau Str. The public park between the dishes and Hai Ba Trung Str. was built in 1983 on the site of the Massiges Cemetery, a burial ground for French soldiers and settlers. The remains of French military personnel were exhumed and repatriated to France. The tomb of the 18th-century French missionary and diplomat Pigneau de Behaine, Bishop of Adran, which was completely destroyed after reunification, was also here.

Notre Dame Cathedral

Built between l877and 1883, Notre Dame Cathedral (HanThuyen Str.,) is set in the heart of HCMC's government quarter. The cathedral faces Đ Dong Khoi. It is neo-Romanesque with two 40m-high square towers tipped with iron spires, which dominate the city's skyline. In front of the cathedral (in the centre of the square bounded by the main post office) is a statue of the Virgin Mary. If the front gates are locked, try the door on the s de of the building that faces Reunification Palace. Unusually, this cathedral has no stained-glass windows: the glass was a casualty of fighting during WWII. A number of foreign travellers worship here and the priests arc allowed to add a short sermon in French or English to their longer presentations in Viet namese. The 9.30am Sunday mass might be the best one for tourists to attend.

Mariamman Hundu Temple

This is the only Hindu temple (Chua Ba Mariamman; 45 Truong Dinh Str.,) still in use in HCMC and is a little piece of southern India in the centre of town. Though there are only 50 to 60 Hindus in HCMC - all of them Tamils -this temple is also considered sacred by many ethnic Vietnamese and ethnic Chinese. Indeed, it is reputed to have miraculous powers. The temple was built at the end of the 19th century and dedicated to the Hindu goddess Mariamman.

Mariamman Hindu Temple is only three-blocks west of Ben Thanh Market. Take off your shoes before stepping onto the slightly raised platform.

Saigon Central Mosque

Built by South Indian Muslims in 1935 on the site of an earlier mosque, the Saigon Central Mosque (66 Dong Du Str.,) is an immaculately clean and well-kept island of calm in the middle of the bustling Dong Khoi area. In front of the sparkling white-and-blue structure, with its four nonfunctional minarets, is a pool for the ritual ablutions required by Islamic law before prayers. Take off your shoes before entering the sanctuary.

The simplicity of the mosque is in marked contrast to the exuberance of Chinese temple decoration, and the rows of figures facing elaborate ritual objects in Buddhist pagodas Islamic law strictly forbids using human 01 animal figures for decoration.

Ton Duc Thang Museum

This small, seldom-visited museum (Bao Tang Ton Duc Thang; Tell: 3829 7542; 5 Ton Duc Thang Str.,; 7.30-11.30am & 1.30-5pm; Tue-Fri) is dedicated to Ton Duc Thang, Ho Chi Minh's successor as president of Vietnam, who was born in Long Xuyen, An Giang province, in 1888. He died in office in 1980. Photos and displays illustrate his role in the Vietnamese Revolution, including a couple of very lifelike exhibits representing the time he spent imprisoned on Con Son Island.

The museum is on the waterfront, half a block north of the Tran Hung Dao statue.

People’s Committee Building

HCMC's gingerbread Hotel deVille, one of the city's most prominent landmarks, is now somewhat incongruously the home of the Ho Chi Minh City People's Committee. Built between 1901 and 1908, the Hotel de Ville is situated at the northwestern end of ĐL Nguyen Hue, facing the river. The former hotel is notable for its gardens, ornate facade and elegant interior lit with crystal chandeliers. It's easily the most photographed building in Vietnam. At night, the exterior is usually covered with thousands of geckos feasting on insects.

Unfortunately, you'll have to content yourself with admiring the exterior only. The building is not open to the public and requests by tourists to visit the interior are rudely rebuffed.

Municipal Theatre

A grand colonial building with a sweeping staircase, the Municipal Theatre (Nha Hat ThanhPho; Tell: 3829 9976; Lam Son Sq) is hard to miss at the intersection of Dong Khoi Str., and Le Loi Str.

Cong Vien Van Hoa Park

Next to the old Cercle Sportif, which was an elite sporting club during the French-colonial period, the bench-lined walks of CongVienVan Hoa Park are shaded with avenues of enormous tropical trees.

Cong Vien Van Hoa Park is adjacent to the Reunification Palace. There are entrances across from 115 Nguyen Du Str., and on Nguyen Thi Minh Khai Str.

• Cholon

Quan Am Pagoda

One of Cholon's most active pagodas, Quan Am Pagoda (12 Lao Tu Str.,) was founded by the Fujian Congregation in the early 19th century and displays obvious Chinese influences. It's named for the Goddess of Mercy, Quan The Am Bo Tat whose statue lies hidden behind a remarkably ornate exterior.

Phuoc An Hoi Quan Pagoda

Built in 1902 by the Fujian Congregation, Phuoc An Hoi Quan Pagoda (184 Hung Vuong Str.,) is one of the most beautifully ornamented pagodas in HCMC. Of special interest are the many small porcelain figures, the elaborate brass ritual objects and the fine woodcarv ings on the altars, walls, columns and hang ing lanterns. From outside the building you can see the ceramic scenes, each contanining;innumerable small figurines, which decorate the roof.

Tam Son Hoi Quan Pagoda

Built by the Fujian Congregation in the 19th century, Tam Son Hoi Quan Pagoda (Chua Ba Chua;118 Trieu Quang Phuc Str.,) retains most of its original rich ornamentation. The pagoda is dedicated to Me Sanh, the Goddess of Fertility It's particularly popular among local women who come here to pray for children.

Tam Son Hoi Quan Pagoda is located close to 370 Tran Hung Dao Str.

Cha Tam Church

Cha Tam Church, built around the turn of the 19th century, with its facade of white and lime-green trim has a sleepy, tropical feel to it - a far cry from its role during one of Saigon's more harrowing epochs. Cha Tarn Church is at the western end of Tran Hung Dao Str.

Thien Hau Pagoda

Built by the Cantonese Congregation in the early 19th century, this large pagoda (Ba Mieu, Pho Mieu or Chua Ba; 710 Nguyen Trai Str.,) is dedicated to Thien Hau and always has a mix of worshippers and visitors, mingling beneath large coils of incense suspended overhead.

Thien Hau (also known as Tuc Goi La Ba) can travel over the oceans on a mat and ride the clouds to wherever she pleases. Her mobility allows her to save people in trouble on the high seas. The Goddess is very popular in Hong Kong and Taiwan, which might explain why this pagoda is included on so many tour-group agendas.

Nghia An Hoi Quan Pagoda

Built by the Chaozhou Chinese Congregation, Nghia An Hoi Quan Pagoda ( 678 Nguyen Trai Str.,) is noteworthy for its gilded woodwork. A large carved wooden boat hangs over the entrance, and, inside to the left of the doorway is an enormous representation of Quan Cong's red horse with its groom. The great general Quan Cong himself occupies a position in a glass case behind the main altar, with his assistants flanking him on both sides. Nghia An Hoi Quan lets its hair down on the 14th day of the first lunar month when various dances are staged in front of the pagoda, with offerings made to the spirits.

Cho Lon Mosque

The clean lines and lack of ornamentation of the Cholon Mosque (641 Nguyen Trai Str.,) contrast starkly with nearby Chinese and Vietnamese Buddhist pagodas. In the courtyard is a pool for ritual ablutions. Note the tiled niche in the wall (mihrab) indicating the direction of prayer, which is towards Mecca. The mosque was built by Tamil Muslims in 1932. Since 1975 it has served the Malaysian and Indo¬nesian Muslim communities.

Ong Bon Pagoda

Built by the Fujian Congregation, Ong Bon Pagoda (Chua Ong Bon & Nhi Phu Hoi Quan; 264 Hai Thuong Lan Ong Str.,) is yet another atmospheric pagoda full of gilded carvings and the ever-present smoke of burning incense. It's dedicated to Ong Bon, the guardian who presides over happiness and wealth. In hope of securing good fortune from the deity, believers bum fake paper money in the pagoda's furnace, located across the courtyard from the pagoda entrance.

Ha Chuong Hoi Quan Pagoda

This typical Fujian pagoda ( 802 Nguyen Trai Str.,) is dedicated to Thien Hau, who was born in Fujian. The four carved stone pillars, wrapped in painted dragons, were made in China and brought to Vietnam by boat. There are interesting murals to each side of the main altar and impressive ceramic relief scenes on the roof.

The pagoda becomes extremely active during the Lantern Festival, a Chinese holiday held on the 15th day of the first lunar month (the first full moon of the new lunar year),

Khanh Van Nam Vien Pagoda

Built between 1939 and 1942 by the Cantonese Congregation, Khanh Van Nam Vien Pagoda (46/5 Lo Sieu Str.,) is said to be the only Taoist pagoda in Vietnam and is unique for its colourful statues of Taoist disciples. The number of true Taoists in HCMC is estimated at no more than 5000, though most Chinese practise a mixture of Taoism and Buddhism.

Prayers are held daily from 8am to 9am. In order to reach the pagoda, turn off Nguyen Thi Nho Str, which runs perpendicular to Đ Hung Vuong (between Nos 269B and 271B).

• Greater HCMC

Although Cholon has a high density of pa godas, there are several particularly striking ones out here, including the peaceful Giac Lam Pagoda with its dazzling architecture and ornamentation.

Giac Lam Pagoda

Believed to be the oldest pagoda in greater HCMC, Giac Lam Pagoda (118 Lac Long Quan Str.,) dates from 1744. It's a fantastically atmospheric place full of gilded statues (over 100 in all), colourful wall panels (depicting among other things the path to enlightenment as well as the tortures awaiting those condemned to hell) with one of the country's most impressive stupas (which is 32m tall). For the sick and elderly, the pagoda is ,1 minor pilgrimage sight, as it contains a bronze bell that when rung is believed to answer the prayers posted by petitioners. Home to several monks, the Buddhist pagoda also incorporates aspects of Taoism and Confucianism. It is well worth the trip out here from the city centre and is one of the city's cultural relics. The pagoda is set in a peaceful, gardenlike setting with the tombs of venerated monks to the right of the two-tiered pagoda gate. The looming Bodhi or pipal tree (bo de) located in the front garden was the gift of a monk from Sri Lanka in 1953. Next to the tree is a gleaming white statue of Quan The Am Bo Tat standing on a lotus blossom - a symbol of purity.

Giac Lam Pagoda is about 3km from Cho-lon in the Tan Binh district, best reached by taxi or.xe om.

Giac Vien Pagoda

Architecturally similar to Giac Lam, this striking pagoda (Lac Long Quan Str.,; 7-11.30am & 1.30-7pm) shares with it an atmosphere of scholarly serenity, though Giac Vien is less visited and in a more rural setting near Dam Sen Lake in District 11. The pagoda was founded by Hai Tinh Giac Vien in the late 1700s. It is said that Emperor Gia Long, who died in 1819, used to worship at Giac Vien. Today 10 monks live here. The pagoda remains a marvellously preserved artefact from the past, boasting some 100 lavish carvings of various divinities.

Giac Vien Pagoda is open during the hours listed, but go before dark as the electricity is often out in the evening. Prayers are held daily from 4am to Sam, 8am to 10am, 2pm to 3pm, 4pm to 5pm and 7pm to 9pm.

Phung Son Pagoda

This pagoda (Phung Son Tu & Chua Go; 1408 3/2 Str.,) is extremely rich in statuary made of bronze, wood, ceramic and hammered copper It's peopled with a mix of gilded and beautifully carved statues (some painted). This Vietnamese Buddhist pagoda was built between 1802 and 1820 on the site of structures from the Oc-Eo (Funan) period, dating back at least to the early centuries of Christianity.

Phung Son Pagoda is in District 11.Prayers are held three time a day, from 4 am to 5 am,4pm to 5pm and 6 pm to 7pm.The main entrances are locked most of the time because of problems with therf,but the side entrance (to the left as you approach the bulding)is open during prayer times.

Le Van Duyet Temple

Dedicated to Marshal Le Van Duyet (1763- 1831), this temple is also his burial place as well as that of his wife's. The marshal was a South Vietnamese general and viceroy who helped put down the Tay Son Rebellion and reunify Vietnam. When the Nguyen dynasty came to power in 1802, he was elevated by Emperor Gia Long to the rank of marshal. Le Van Duyet tell into disfavour with Gia Long's successor, Minh Mang, who tried him posthumously and desecrated his grave. Emperor Thien tri, who succeeded Minh Mang, restored the tomb, thus lfulfilling, a prophesy of its destruction and restoratim. Le Van Duyet was considered a national hero in the South before 1975, but is disliked in the communists because of his involvement in the expansion of French influence.

The temple is reached by heading north from the city centre on Đ Dinh Tien Hoang, all the way to Phan Dang Luu Str.,; it's easy to spot from the southeast corner.

An Quang Pagoda

This pagoda (Su Van Hanh Str.,) gained some notoriety during the American War as the home of Thich Tri Quang, a powerful monk who led protests against the South Vietnamese government in 1963 and 1966. When the war ended you would have expected the communists to be grateful. Instead, he was placed under house arrest and later thrown into solitary confinement for 16 months. Thich Tri Quang was eventually released and is said to be still living at An Quang Pagoda. An Quang Pagoda is on Su Van Hanh Str., near the intersection with Ba Hat Str., in District 10.

Cho Quan Church

Built by the French about 100 years ago, Cho Quan Church (133 Tran Binh Trong Str., 4-7am & 3-6pm Mon-Sat, 4-9am & 1.30-6pm Sun) is one of the largest churches in HCMC. Jesus on the altar has a neon halo, though the best reason to come here is for the view from the belfry (a steep climb). The church is between Tran Hung Dao Str., and Nguyen Trai Str. Sunday masses are held at Sam, 6.30am, 8.30am, 4.30pm and 6pm.

Activities

• Bowling

Diamond Superbowl (Tell: 3825 7778; Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan Str.,; 10-1am) This is a state-of-the-art, 32-lane bowling alley smack dab in the centre of town. It's very popular with locals and is notable tor having fluorescent bowling balls and computerised scoring. Attached is a large amusement centre with billiards, a video-game arcade and shops.

• Gyms & Pools

Even if you don't make it to one of Saigon's water parks or to Cong Vien Van Hoa Park, some of HCMC's finer hotels have gyms with attractive swimming pools attached. You needn't stay there to swim, but you'll have to pay an admission fee. Hotels offering access to their pools include theLegend (Tell: 3823 3333; 2A Ton Duc Thang Str., District 1), Park Hyatt Saigon, Majestic Hotel, Renaissance Riverside Hotel and Rex Hotel.

There are a number of less-expensive public pools and some of the newer ones are in very good condition. These pools charge by the hour and this works out to be very cheap, if you're staying only a short time.

Lam Son Pool (Tell: 3835 8028; 342 Tran Binh Trong Str.,, District 5) Has an Olympic-sized pool.

Lan Anh Club (Tell: 3862 7144; 291 Cach Mang Thang Tam Str, District 10) Good gym here.

Workers' Club (Tell: 3930 1819; 55B Nguyen Thi Minh Khai Str.,, District 3)

• Gold

Vietnam Golf and Country Club (Can Lac Bo Golf Quoc Te Viet Nam; Tel: 3733 0126; Long Thanh My Village, District 9), situated about 15km east of central HCMC, was the first in Vietnam to provide night golfing under floodlights. Other facilities include tennis courts and a swimming pool.

Rach Chiec Driving Range Hwy 1, An Phu Village, District 9; 6am-10pm) is a good place to practise your swing; clubs, shoes and instructors can be hired. It's a 20-minute drive north from central HCMC.

• Massages & Spas

HCMC offers some truly fantastic settings for pampering - the perfect antidote to a frenetic day spent dodging motorbikes. While many midrange and upmarket hotels offer massage service, some are more legitimate than others. L'Apothiquaire (64A Truong Dinh Str.,; 9am-9pm; the city's most elegant spa, is housed in a pretty, white mansion lucked down a quiet alley, with numerous services available. Guests enjoy body wraps, massages, facials, foot treatments and herbal baths, and L'Apothiquaire makes its own line of lotions and cosmetics. Those seeking a bit more activity can try yoga, tai chi or pilates classes. There's also an excellent meal served during lunchtime, and if you become a member (or book a package), you'll have free use of the pool and sauna.

Vietnamese Traditional Massage Institute (Tell: 839 6697; 185 Đ Cong Quynh; per hr 35,000-45,000(1, sauna 25,000d; (9am-9pm) is not the cleanest setting, but it does offer inexpensive, no-nonsense massages performed by well-trained blind masseurs from the Ho Chi Minh City Association for the Blind.

Spa Tropic (187B ĐL Hai Ba Trung, District 3; per hr massage USS25;10am-8pm is a good place to spoil yourself with a top-notch 'proper' massage. This Zen-like beauty spa offers an array of aroma-therapy facial treatments, body treatments and therapeutic massage, from Swedish and deep-tissue to shiatsu. Spa Tropic is found in the same quiet alley as Tib Restaurant. Call ahead for reservations.

Zanadu Health Club (63 Nguyen Hue Str.,)The spa at the Duxton Hotel, is a great place to drop in for a massage. Golden Lotus Foot Massage Club (20 Thi Sach Str.,) delivers bliss to overworked gams, and also gives genera] body masage Lotus' most popular package includes a 90 minute massage followed by ten minutes of 'Lotus tea time".

• Yoga & Martial Arts

There are several places in town to take yoga classes, including the calming L'Apothiquaire (left). If you're interested in martial arts. the-best place to see (or try) thai cue quyen is at Cong Vien Van Hoa Park or in the Cholon district, where there is a large ethnic-Chinese population. Ask the staff at the Arc, En Ciel Hotel to point you in the right direction.

Saigon Yoga (10F ĐNguyen Thi Minh Khai Str., 8m-7pm) is a small yoga studio (tucked down a narrow alley) offering Vikram, Ashtanga, Vinyasa and power yoga as well as pilates classes taught by US and Singaporean instructors.

K1 Boxing Centre (11thfl, 59/52/21B Tran Van Dang Str., 9am-6pm Mon-Fri) is ideal for kick-boxing enthusiasts, and the place to improve your technique. The full-contact dojo is run by Frenchman David 'Serial Striker' Minetti. Private lessons and monthly rates are available.

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